Author Topic: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down  (Read 5074 times)

steamroller

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epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« on: April 23, 2018, 02:10:26 AM »
1st session looked exactly like all the 1st timer "eat it" videos all over the internet...almost chopped my foot off half a dozen times...almost fell on and got stabbed by the wing a half dozen more...board rolling over sideways and falling on the wing or wheeling out of the water began to get scary...

2nd session i thought "what if i just ride sitting down"...feet out in front kayak style...caught a wave sitting down...angle across the face...transferred paddle to inside hand...outside hand grab the rail...little but hop to engage the foil and ....yeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaa...flying down the line foiling and IN CONTROL!!!...for once...

sitting down is soooooo much easier and way safer when you have to bail...doesnt look very cool at all but its great for getting the feel of what the foil  is going to do...

 ;D


PonoBill

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #1 on: April 23, 2018, 11:36:38 AM »
Hey Steamroller, the first few sessions are kind of nervewracking. Sitting down didn't occur to me, though I have foiled on my knees. Three things that might help you. Okay, more than three.

1. Prepare to bail. Off the back is best. If things don't feel right, pull the ripcord early and go off the back.

2. NEVER try to catch and correct if the board is tilting to either side. Your surf tendency is to lean the opposite way to the tilt. If you do that you make the foil lift in the wrong direction--making the tilt much worse. You'll wind up jackknifing and fall on the foil, which will be close to the surface. A fine way to get hurt. As you progress you learn to follow the foil. You aren't surfing the board, you're surfing the foil. Following the foil means keeping your body weight over the center of lift and at the same angle. Completely counterintuitive until you remember that the board isn't doing anything. Plus, if you follow the foil and crash, your body is on the opposite side from the foil.

3. Don't kick to get back on the board. California surfers always seem to kick. Hawaii surfers have pincushions and razorblades under their feet. They rarely kick. Reach way across the board and get the opposite rail, slide yourself onto the board. This automatically tilts the foil away from you.

4. Watch Robert Stehlick's video on foil safety. It would be a lot better if it was scripted or edited to eliminate repetition, but it's the best thing out there now, and there's a lot of good information.

It helps a great deal to get into the right position and focus on it from the beginning. Surfer's stance is a no-no for beginners. Front foot in the strap or on the magic spot, wherever that is for you. If you have a strap put it in the furthest forward position to begin with. Back foot can be over the mast or anywhere you are comfortable with to catch the wave. You can move your back foot easily. Moving your front foot takes foiling experience. Facing forward, hips rotated forward, head up (don't bend at the waist or shoulders). You have three positions as a beginner: Weight full forward on your front foot, Standing up, weight centered, "sitting" meaning head up, hips forward, knees bent, core tight, weight wherever you want it--usually to pump or just fly the foil up. Starting off it's really just forward and sitting.

Once you are in the wave and surfing it's a good idea at first to hold the paddle in your left hand if you're a regular foot and put both arms out and down at a 45-degree angle. It helps you get your weight a little lower and reminds you not to rotate your body into surfers stance, which often happened to me when I held the paddle in both hands. I don't do that now, but it was a great help to me initially to remember to avoid surf stance.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 11:45:32 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

surfcowboy

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2018, 07:51:49 PM »
Steamroller, this is hilarious but sort of makes sense. How did you know where to sit? Seems like if you were wrong you'd be tossed without being able to correct but I also see how that's kind of the idea here.

Pono, your response is gold. Thank you. The only thing I'd ask is that you clarify the 3 positions. It's hard to figure out that you said:

1. Weight forward
2. Standing
3. "Sitting"

Is this right?

PonoBill

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2018, 08:35:38 PM »
Weight forward is hips square and facing forward (true in all cases) with as much weight as possible on your front leg without bending at the waist or shoulders

Standing is knees slightly bent, core and butt engaged, but basically standing in a neutral position. This is what you do when you're flying the foil and you have it trimmed. Save that for about session ten.

Sitting is knees bent, hips back. basically a low crouch. Keep your core engaged and be ready to move your weight forward. Sitting is the most descriptive name I could think of. If you stand with your feet in line, pressure on your big toes, knees bent, and you move your weight forward and back by moving your hips you'll feel the right positions for forward and sitting. Sam Pa'e showed this off and used the same names in a video he did, but I can't find the buggah. Good information like all Sam's videos.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

SUP Committed

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2018, 05:31:28 AM »
Steamroller come to Oahu and I'll teach you everything you'll need to know to keep yourself safe. Yes squaring off is the most important part to learn. As surfers we have the tendency start in the surfing stance until we learn the hard way. Leaning, Standing, and Sitting is the three basic principles to controlling the foil.

Leaning-weight transferred forward over your front foot. If you feel your front thigh burning from trying to hold your body up from falling forward you are doing correct. Bending at the waist is not applicable. You'll transfer weight off the side of the rail, causing a tilt, which directs the foil to turn, now you will roll off the side of the board, and get a personal introduction to "Iwa"

Stand- All your weight is directed between you straight up. It's comfortable, standing tall, and enjoy the view. Pretty straight forward but be sure the hips are squared off (very important)

Sitting- All your weight is transford to your back feet. You'll feel your thigh burning to hold up your body from falling back. This is key when your losing altitude or energy on the wave. Your commanding the wing to tilt slightly upward for lift.

Now with learning these 3-key principles you'll start to feel the foil and what it's staring to do, however don't try to correct if something starts to go bad or it feel unnatural (wobbles, tilt, etc..) If things don't feel, look, or sound right hit the eject button and...."BAIL"

The main goal here to stay "low and in control" and not try to "stay high and fly". Staying "high" will get you a "black eye" .....LMAO (I just made that up)

Hope this helps.......Like I tell all my friend "it take a commitment to foil" and there's a lot to learn. If you pull the trigger and get you a foil rig I'll be "Fully Committed" to share my Mana'o (knowledge and experience) with you. Come to Hawaii the door is always open

Aloha.....Sam

steamroller

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2018, 12:51:30 PM »
what?...come to Oahu?...come to Maui?...dont tempt me!!...fine...BOOM!...just pulled the trigger on HawaiianAir....Sam i going see you Saturday!...PonoBill and Kaser... Monday!....

BE THERE OR BE SQUARE!

yeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaah.....FOILSURF!!!!

 :) ;D


"stay low and in control" is gonna be the name of my new band....if i had one...
« Last Edit: April 25, 2018, 12:53:25 PM by steamroller »

PonoBill

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2018, 01:47:51 PM »
Damn, dude, Monday I'm on a plane to Portland! Have fun. Looks like a bit of swell on the way so it should work out well.

Hey Sam, where is that video you did where you're standing on the wall showing your buddy how to square up. That was great but I can't find it.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2018, 01:49:29 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

steamroller

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2018, 08:04:37 PM »
have fun in portland!....sams staning on the eall video is on Facebook...i watched that one at least 10times already too...great stuff!

 ;)

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2018, 01:14:52 AM »
Hey Sam, where is that video you did where you're standing on the wall showing your buddy how to square up. That was great but I can't find it.
I can't post the video. I don't know how. However here's the link https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10210010194634606&id=1328101002
If you have the capabilities can you post the video....Mahalo

PonoBill

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2018, 09:52:36 AM »
I've had great advice and encouragement from all my friends in the Maui foiling community, Especially Kathy Shipman and Randy Royce, but Sam's video really brought body position home for me.

Yesterday I was struggling a bit after nearly two weeks of layoff caused by zilch for surf, but I concentrated getting my body right and everything clicked right back in place. Had a great session and got some fine banked turns in. I'm learning to get relaxed with the speed and the feeling of being a little out of control. As usual in almost any balance sport, you can't fight too hard for control, you have to let go a bit and follow rather than force.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

SUP Committed

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2018, 07:38:51 AM »
what?...come to Oahu?...come to Maui?...dont tempt me!!...fine...BOOM!...just pulled the trigger on HawaiianAir....Sam i gong see you on Saturday
Damn for a guy that just started I am fully impressed. After 2hrs of taking a few licks, and then squaring off.....You did fricking awesome. I notice it started to work for you once you leaned forward (bending at the knee). Like most peeps thinking your bending at the waist will give you that accomplishment of leaning and as you can see it's not the same. 8hrs of straight foiling in 1ft bunny hills make learning very achievable......CONGRATULATION

Beasho

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2018, 07:07:25 PM »
Hey Sam, where is that video you did where you're standing on the wall showing your buddy how to square up. That was great but I can't find it.
If you have the capabilities can you post the video....Mahalo

https://youtu.be/La5WoDEYC74

SUP Committed

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2018, 11:48:04 PM »
Hey Sam, where is that video you did where you're standing on the wall showing your buddy how to square up. That was great but I can't find it.
If you have the capabilities can you post the video....Mahalo
tWow....thanks for the post. I guess others can watch this as well. Awesome

https://youtu.be/La5WoDEYC74

steamroller

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2018, 07:23:17 AM »



Aloha Sam and Kaser....thank you for all the mana'o and good times last week....best
.
surf trip....ever!.... ;D ;) :D ;) ;D ;D ;D

PonoBill

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Re: epiphany from a 2 session guy...just sit down
« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2018, 08:40:13 AM »
Up and flying, fantastic, buddy. Is this the most addictive thing you've ever done in the water or what? I'm having withdrawal symptoms in Hood river, but haven't had a chance to try foiling at the hatchery yet. Every time the swells are big and my buddies are going I'm committed to something else. I might have to take a trip to the coast to get a fix.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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