Author Topic: Clean Carbon Edge  (Read 7517 times)

Beasho

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Clean Carbon Edge
« on: October 02, 2017, 04:02:29 PM »
How do you create a clean carbon edge without fraying?

I came home from a summer trip and found salt crystals along the forward rails of my L41.

No problem I say, I'll just add a nice carbon rail.  Laid the carbon out on plastic, wetted both sides and then applied to a sanded rail.  Secured the edge with clear plastic package tape and its done in a one shot lamination.  The finish looks better than you think and doesn't require an hour(s) of sanding, finishing . . .

Is there a better way to cut, and preserve, a clean line along the carbon?  With glass it doesn't matter as much but the frayed edges on the carbon look a bit campy.  Maybe apply a touch of super glue to the outer perimeter.  Any other suggestions?
« Last Edit: October 02, 2017, 04:05:45 PM by Beasho »

jrandy

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2017, 04:42:50 PM »
Maybe try taping off the area adjacent to the repair and set up for a cut lap (razor) or grind lap (sander).

-Cutlap is done when resin is 'soft set' (not sticky but soft enough to bend and cut)
-Grindlap is done next day or when resin is cured enough to sand. Sometimes I double the tape to make more of a lip to grind.

The visqueen/plastic/peel ply/'poor man's vacuum' is an excellent idea.
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Biggreen

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2017, 05:08:46 PM »
What I've done is carefully cut my carbon, then misted it lightly with spray glue, then laid 1/2 oz (any light weight would be fine) E glass over it. That way when you lay the carbon you won't get the janky edge and the glass disappears. Also, say you've cut a 4" width of carbon. Then cut a 5-6" width of glass and spray glue it over, then wrap the glass around the edges, even cleaner. A guy like you, Beasho, I'm sure you're already seeing there are any number of variations to this method and all work well. And all pretty well eliminate the carbon edge fuss.

Dwight (DW)

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2017, 05:35:25 PM »
https://instagram.com/p/BJiur0jgq0_/
Apply masking tape before cutting carbon. Leave the tape on it during lamination. Use cut lap technique to get rid of it and provide clean edge.

PonoBill

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2017, 05:42:52 PM »
Spray glue doesn't significantly effect epoxy as long as you use it lightly. most complex layups in molds use lots of it to hold everything in placed, especially when you're doing infusion processes. It's best used with actual vacuum bagging since the pressure on the plies will force epoxy into places glue might exclude if from with just a "poor man's" bag. So if you want a perfect carbon edge, lay down 40oz glass or veil, spray lightly with contact cement, lay on your carbon, spray with cement, lay on 4oz, and cut away.

Other wise you can:
a. cut lap
b. grind lap
c. Live with it. I generally do c.

At the other end of the spectrum there's guys like Storm, who do a table preg, cut out the shapes they want with a razor, and get a perfect job. But I've tried that numerous times and made a mess. It's like watching some guy play a Cello and thinking "that looks easy".
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

peterwSUPr

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2017, 04:09:28 AM »
If you have a strip of tape along the edge of the cut carbon it will not conform to a complex curve.  It will all lay out nicely except when you get close to the tape things wil not want to lay flat, or at least that is what happened to me.

Once you have sprayed the carbon with Super 77 adhesive it can be cut with a lot less fraying too.

Peter

supuk

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2017, 04:55:14 AM »
I would avoid spray adhesives if you are going to wrap a compound curve as it reduces the ability of divers to move and the cloth to conform to shapes. Cutting corners with you plastic tecnique will never provide perfect results multiple steps is the only way. There are many ways to do this just go to a shop and look at all the boards and study and break down how they have been done.

PonoBill

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2017, 05:37:47 AM »
I generally agree with you Supuk, but the most complex layups with near impossible contours are done with spray adhesive to hold the layers in place. Definitely a "less is more" approach is required, but infusion processes with complex molds are nearly impossible without glue to hold all the stuff in place before bagging.

Same thing for fray prevention. The object isn't to soak the fabric, it's to bond some of the threads on the surface.

What's a "diver". I assume spellcheck but can't figure it out.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supuk

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2017, 06:03:00 AM »
I generally agree with you Supuk, but the most complex layups with near impossible contours are done with spray adhesive to hold the layers in place. Definitely a "less is more" approach is required, but infusion processes with complex molds are nearly impossible without glue to hold all the stuff in place before bagging.

Same thing for fray prevention. The object isn't to soak the fabric, it's to bond some of the threads on the surface.

What's a "diver". I assume spellcheck but can't figure it out.

That's correct it's to hold cloth in place but if you use it before to get a clean cut before you lay the cloth down it will not conform easily. It is allso better to spray it on the surface of the mould than the cloth itself so it does not effect the penetration of the epoxy. 


Sorry that should have read fibers ( productive text edit)

jrandy

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2017, 12:31:03 PM »
Hey Pono, divers need love too... :P
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Be safe, have fun. -J

surfcowboy

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #10 on: October 21, 2017, 10:34:11 AM »
I've been considering trying a grind lap on my next build. Does carbon grind lap without crazy fraying once it's lammed?

supuk

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #11 on: October 21, 2017, 03:15:15 PM »
Yes it's fine but don't atampts one anywhere mere anything you want to keep White if it's not already hot coated as the dust will get into the weave and always show.

jrandy

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #12 on: October 21, 2017, 06:22:59 PM »
It is as Charlie says, the black dust is pervasive on porous surfaces. You might want to think about taping things off or strategic basting or fill coating to fill in any non-filled glass weave before grinding the carbon fiber.
http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

surfcowboy

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #13 on: October 21, 2017, 08:19:22 PM »
Ah, hadn't thought of that. The mess!

Does it look cool? If it doesn't cause fish eyes it might be a cool dusted look on a white board lol

PonoBill

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Re: Clean Carbon Edge
« Reply #14 on: October 21, 2017, 08:46:42 PM »
A clean edge is a nice aesthetic, and I've done it once or twice to prove to myself that I can, but since most of what I'm doing is modification or repair, I don't get too worked up over frayed edges. The easiest way to make a clean edge on carbon is with paint, which is how a lot of production boards are done. I don't do a lot of painting other than rattlecan touch ups. Can't see adding the weight. When I finally build a board from scratch I'll pull out all the stops.

I guess re-glassing my F18 kind of counts, but some of you might remember how that turned out. I still have it--out behind the shop. Not going on the wall.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

 


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